Just a couple more examples of the madness of the EHO (environmental health officers) that are attempting to ruin everything that is good about Irish food (mainly its flavour). Remember these people have similar powers to a Garda Seargant and can shut a food business down instantly. Here are some examples I have heard over the past year -
- The EHO that wants to shut down the meals on wheels service for old and sick people because the premises the food is cooked in does not have a second sink
- The EHO (the same one as above) that made a butcher put in a second sink at a cost of hundreds of euro because the second sink he did have was 3 steps away from the other sink.
- The EHO that threatened to shut down a restaurant in the west of Ireland because she found dirty unwashed potatoes in the prep room. After it was explained that these potatoes had been dug by the chef that morning and would be washed before being taken to the kitchen she was slightly mollified but she strongly recommended that vacuum packed washed peeled potatoes (with no nutritional value) should be used in future.
- the EHO that harassed all cheese stalls out of the markets of the south east. She just kept finding fault until they left for good - in particular she wanted all cheese sellers to have fresh running water at their stall. (thankfully it was a different EHO to the one in the west or she might have driven the farmers out with all their disgusting dirty vegetables - "why cant these people grow their vegetables in sterile environments instead of resorting to putting them in the filthy earth!" is no doubt what she would have said.
- the EHO that went ballistic at the fish stall also in the south east becuase her thermometer probe found the ice on the fish stall was at 18 degrees celsius. She relented somewhat when it was explained that she had pushed the probe through the ice box to the other side and was actually taking the temperature of the air and that ice remaining solid at 18 degrees was rather unlikely.
- the EHO that effectively shut down the egg producer becuase she had the audacity to want to introduce new hens to her flock. The egg producer couldnt afford to build a second hen house as requested by the EHO, and as the current stock of hens were not producing enough eggs to make the business sustainable she was forced to give up altogether.
- the EHO in the north west that will allow one of the best butchers in the region sell his fresh blood black pudding in his own shop but not in the shop next door. This amazing product could compete with the best boudin noir of France, Spain and Italy but it will never be allowed to do so because he is forced to use inferior dried blood for any puddings sold outside his own premises.
- the EHO that visited a raw milk cheese maker while the owner was conveniently on holiday and bullied the staff into scrubbing the maturing room with disinfectant thus killing all the good bacteria that made the cheese. It took over a year for the cheese to even begin to resemble what it did before.
The Dept. of Agriculture inspectors are just as bad and in one instance they confiscated cheese from a cheesemaker because they were worried about infection in the cows the milk came from, but yet once the cows were slaughtered they were happy to allow the meat to be sold. The Dept. has virtually wiped out all the small abbatoirs in the country so animals are forced to travel long distances before slaughter causing distress (and affecting the quality of the meat). Trevor Seargant is talking about opening some again but I am not holding my breath.
Wednesday, December 19, 2007
Friday, December 14, 2007
Steak and Chips - in search of perfection
First published on http://www.bestofbridgestone.com/
Steak Frites is the quintessential French Bistro dish. Whenever I am in France this is the dish I order more than any other as I can be fairly certain they will get it right - or at least less wrong. The chips might be cooked from frozen and the steak underdone (to some Irish palates) but I have come to trust in the simplicity of this dish.
First let me tell you what steak frites is not. It is not tender but tasteless fillet steak with a tournedos sauce (the reason fillet always has a rich sauce is because it is usually tasteless on its own), and the frites are thin and crispy – they are never, ever, ever, wedges of undercooked soggy potato.
The best steak frites is made with a cheap cut such as rib-eye, rump or onglet cooked rare or blue. If you like your steak well done you need to order a better cut as these cuts will not work.
The chewy texture and meaty flavours from the cheaper cuts are essential to match the crispy fluffy chips. Sirloin is just about acceptable and maybe Striploin but the chips had better be damn good.
In France ask for “à point” for what we call medium rare or saignant as the French do. A word of warning - you wont be taken seriously as a diner in France unless you ask for saignant which will only cook the outside leaving most of the proteins un-connected (OK I admit it – raw!). Once you try it a few times you wont want your steak frites any other way.
Sadly many restaurant customers do not understand this and I know that Venu were forced within six months to change their cut (and increase the price) as customers reported their steak as “chewy”. Telling customers “it’s supposed to be that way!” is sadly not an option in Ireland (as it would be in France!).
Now the frites - this may sound like sacrilege, but give me frozen crispy chips over the abomination that are “home-cooked chips” or “hand-cut chips” which turn out to be little more than soapy wedges of undercooked potato – all too prevalent in restaurants of all price ranges in Dublin and elsewhere.
The problem with freshly prepared thin crispy chips is time. Bistros survive on rapid turnover and many believe they just don’t have the time to first blanch their chips in 140C oil, cool them down, and then cook from cold at 180C – as they do in Alexis in Dun Laoghaire (who use maris piper).
Personally I don’t see what the problem is – if Alexis can do it and just charge €22.50 for sublime steak and the crispiest of chips why cant everyone else?
Lockes use Spanish potatoes, blanch their chips three times in oil before the final frying and these are also out of this world good. Blanching three times probably a little over the top but it really does work so I am not complaining.
Balzac cooks a fine steak frites and unashamedly uses frozen chips and I applaud them for this, particularly as they have outstanding duck fat potatoes also on the menu – a reason for visiting on their own.
Venu has tried fresh cut chips (cut raw early in the day – pretty good), frozen chips (not bad) and have finally settled on the blanching and re-frying method (excellent). Currently my sources tell me they are experimenting with oils and have a “secret ingredient” which they believe will give them “the best chips in the city”. Truly a worthy ambition and something for which I wish others would strive.
If you are in Paris the best steak frites I have had was at Le Gavroche on Rue St. Marc, a tiny old school bistro in the 2nd Arr – the best frites in Paris according to Figaro and truly excellent they are; (whisper it though, the ones in Lockes and Alexis are better.)
In New York visit Les Halles on Park Avenue which I still believe was the best steak frites I have ever experienced. At home use Anthony Bourdain’s Les Halles Cookbook which tells you all you need to know about the dish.
As Disreli said “It was not reason that besieged Troy; it was not reason that sent forth the Saracen from the desert to conquer the world… above all, it was not reason that created the French Revolution. Man is only great when he acts from the passions; never irresistible but when he appeals to the imagination.”
So rise with me as customers of the restaurants of Ireland to stay the encroaching tide of wedges, and let us demand frites.
Steak Frites is the quintessential French Bistro dish. Whenever I am in France this is the dish I order more than any other as I can be fairly certain they will get it right - or at least less wrong. The chips might be cooked from frozen and the steak underdone (to some Irish palates) but I have come to trust in the simplicity of this dish.
First let me tell you what steak frites is not. It is not tender but tasteless fillet steak with a tournedos sauce (the reason fillet always has a rich sauce is because it is usually tasteless on its own), and the frites are thin and crispy – they are never, ever, ever, wedges of undercooked soggy potato.
The best steak frites is made with a cheap cut such as rib-eye, rump or onglet cooked rare or blue. If you like your steak well done you need to order a better cut as these cuts will not work.
The chewy texture and meaty flavours from the cheaper cuts are essential to match the crispy fluffy chips. Sirloin is just about acceptable and maybe Striploin but the chips had better be damn good.
In France ask for “à point” for what we call medium rare or saignant as the French do. A word of warning - you wont be taken seriously as a diner in France unless you ask for saignant which will only cook the outside leaving most of the proteins un-connected (OK I admit it – raw!). Once you try it a few times you wont want your steak frites any other way.
Sadly many restaurant customers do not understand this and I know that Venu were forced within six months to change their cut (and increase the price) as customers reported their steak as “chewy”. Telling customers “it’s supposed to be that way!” is sadly not an option in Ireland (as it would be in France!).
Now the frites - this may sound like sacrilege, but give me frozen crispy chips over the abomination that are “home-cooked chips” or “hand-cut chips” which turn out to be little more than soapy wedges of undercooked potato – all too prevalent in restaurants of all price ranges in Dublin and elsewhere.
The problem with freshly prepared thin crispy chips is time. Bistros survive on rapid turnover and many believe they just don’t have the time to first blanch their chips in 140C oil, cool them down, and then cook from cold at 180C – as they do in Alexis in Dun Laoghaire (who use maris piper).
Personally I don’t see what the problem is – if Alexis can do it and just charge €22.50 for sublime steak and the crispiest of chips why cant everyone else?
Lockes use Spanish potatoes, blanch their chips three times in oil before the final frying and these are also out of this world good. Blanching three times probably a little over the top but it really does work so I am not complaining.
Balzac cooks a fine steak frites and unashamedly uses frozen chips and I applaud them for this, particularly as they have outstanding duck fat potatoes also on the menu – a reason for visiting on their own.
Venu has tried fresh cut chips (cut raw early in the day – pretty good), frozen chips (not bad) and have finally settled on the blanching and re-frying method (excellent). Currently my sources tell me they are experimenting with oils and have a “secret ingredient” which they believe will give them “the best chips in the city”. Truly a worthy ambition and something for which I wish others would strive.
If you are in Paris the best steak frites I have had was at Le Gavroche on Rue St. Marc, a tiny old school bistro in the 2nd Arr – the best frites in Paris according to Figaro and truly excellent they are; (whisper it though, the ones in Lockes and Alexis are better.)
In New York visit Les Halles on Park Avenue which I still believe was the best steak frites I have ever experienced. At home use Anthony Bourdain’s Les Halles Cookbook which tells you all you need to know about the dish.
As Disreli said “It was not reason that besieged Troy; it was not reason that sent forth the Saracen from the desert to conquer the world… above all, it was not reason that created the French Revolution. Man is only great when he acts from the passions; never irresistible but when he appeals to the imagination.”
So rise with me as customers of the restaurants of Ireland to stay the encroaching tide of wedges, and let us demand frites.
Wednesday, December 5, 2007
Tallaght - All Fur Coat etc
What with all the snazzy new high rises and apartment blocks in Dublin 24 (including three or four new hotels), might one expect an alternative to Graham O'Sullivan's in the basement of The Square Shopping Centre or the carvery at the Abberley Court - neither of which would be on anyone's trail for a decent bit to eat???? Not entirely.
Three places recently tried are The Carvery at the bar in The Tower Hotel, the bar at The Glashaus Hotel, and Cactus Jack's.
The Tower is apparently a 4 star hotel ( 5th star was denied since the bedrooms aren't big enough) on the N81 on the left as you drive past Tallaght on the road to Blessington. Architecture is quite striking (in not a bad way) so you can't really miss it. I was there for a business lunch and for a carvery I must say I have had much worse. The roast beef was a light pink inside ( if it was rarer I might have gone for it, but at least it wasn't incinerated), usual choices to be had - beef, chicken, pork, salmon. I had the chicken in a mushroom cream sauce which was just a breast roasted on the bone and very good. The mash was clearly put through a ricer - no lumps - which is always a good sign. Desserts were nice too - I had a mini tart tatin with vanilla ice cream. Not bad for lunch on a working day. If you want to see how bad a meal like this can be - try An Poitin Stil if its still under the same management as was a year or two back. Decor is a bit bland and the room is enormous with a very high ceilings. Not even slightly cosy and flat screen TVs mounted everywhere, which I didn't like at all. The coffee was great though.
They also have a proper 'restaurant' called Eon (sounds dodgy). Would love to hear if anyone's been there - only open in the evening I think.
The Glashaus Hotel is Irish owned and managed as is The Tower. All sounds very hip and boutiquey and that is what they are aiming for, if not quite hitting. All these places seem to be geared towards the business market - not too many rock stars then. This is just across the way from the new M and S beside The Square. The food in the bar was pretty good and well priced - they have a restaurant upstairs with the same menu. Service excellent and nice atmosphere - well decorated and I would be back. I had crab cakes with a sweet chilli sauce which was nicely done.
Cactus Jacks is a Tex Mex place and is round the corner from The Glashaus. I've had lunch there twice - poor me. First time I ordered ciabatta with chorizo, cheddar cheese, salsa and some other topping. Anyway, about a quarter of the way through I really felt as if the whole thing was really dry and realised I was missing the salsa and other topping. I asked for and got a side of guacamole and salsa which I wasn't charged for. I left a lot of it. Second time was a work lunch and I order a chicken fajita with rice and salad. It was OK - very bland. All very pedestrian although the portions are decent but would want to be when most mains are 10 - 13 Euro each. I won't be back - it was all very heavy and unexciting. They should call their neighbours at the Glashouse for the sweet chilli sauce recipe which would liven things up a bit.
So, out of them all I would say The Glashaus is definitely the winner. Though I won't be expecting any waves in the little foodie pond of Ireland to be crashing against the cliffs over any of them.
However, the market near The Abberley on Fridays and Saturdays is quite good. There is a butcher there who sells the most DIVINE sausages I've had in years. Also Paddy Jacks have some very nice Basque sheeps cheeses amongst others.
Over and out from Tallaght!!
Three places recently tried are The Carvery at the bar in The Tower Hotel, the bar at The Glashaus Hotel, and Cactus Jack's.
The Tower is apparently a 4 star hotel ( 5th star was denied since the bedrooms aren't big enough) on the N81 on the left as you drive past Tallaght on the road to Blessington. Architecture is quite striking (in not a bad way) so you can't really miss it. I was there for a business lunch and for a carvery I must say I have had much worse. The roast beef was a light pink inside ( if it was rarer I might have gone for it, but at least it wasn't incinerated), usual choices to be had - beef, chicken, pork, salmon. I had the chicken in a mushroom cream sauce which was just a breast roasted on the bone and very good. The mash was clearly put through a ricer - no lumps - which is always a good sign. Desserts were nice too - I had a mini tart tatin with vanilla ice cream. Not bad for lunch on a working day. If you want to see how bad a meal like this can be - try An Poitin Stil if its still under the same management as was a year or two back. Decor is a bit bland and the room is enormous with a very high ceilings. Not even slightly cosy and flat screen TVs mounted everywhere, which I didn't like at all. The coffee was great though.
They also have a proper 'restaurant' called Eon (sounds dodgy). Would love to hear if anyone's been there - only open in the evening I think.
The Glashaus Hotel is Irish owned and managed as is The Tower. All sounds very hip and boutiquey and that is what they are aiming for, if not quite hitting. All these places seem to be geared towards the business market - not too many rock stars then. This is just across the way from the new M and S beside The Square. The food in the bar was pretty good and well priced - they have a restaurant upstairs with the same menu. Service excellent and nice atmosphere - well decorated and I would be back. I had crab cakes with a sweet chilli sauce which was nicely done.
Cactus Jacks is a Tex Mex place and is round the corner from The Glashaus. I've had lunch there twice - poor me. First time I ordered ciabatta with chorizo, cheddar cheese, salsa and some other topping. Anyway, about a quarter of the way through I really felt as if the whole thing was really dry and realised I was missing the salsa and other topping. I asked for and got a side of guacamole and salsa which I wasn't charged for. I left a lot of it. Second time was a work lunch and I order a chicken fajita with rice and salad. It was OK - very bland. All very pedestrian although the portions are decent but would want to be when most mains are 10 - 13 Euro each. I won't be back - it was all very heavy and unexciting. They should call their neighbours at the Glashouse for the sweet chilli sauce recipe which would liven things up a bit.
So, out of them all I would say The Glashaus is definitely the winner. Though I won't be expecting any waves in the little foodie pond of Ireland to be crashing against the cliffs over any of them.
However, the market near The Abberley on Fridays and Saturdays is quite good. There is a butcher there who sells the most DIVINE sausages I've had in years. Also Paddy Jacks have some very nice Basque sheeps cheeses amongst others.
Over and out from Tallaght!!
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