Finally got around to writing again... long story but apologies to anyone that logged on. Quick word about Michael Pollan's new book "In Defense of Food"(click to view it on Amazon) which I finished this week. Pollan's previous book "The Omnivore's Dilemma " was a fascinating and bang up to date account of the dilemmas faced by those of us surrounded by the western diet - particularly those unfortunate enough to be poor and living in the US. While OD was concerned mostly with the way we eat and where the food comes from, the latest book is more of an idiots guide and probably more use to a US audience. The book is a counter argument to the nutritionist and food processors argument that nutrients are all we need not foods (handy for the industry as they can keep coming up with new products to match the latest fashionable nutrient (fibre is out, omega 3 is in).
US and European Health Authorities, nutritionists and dietitians are often far more concerned with what Pollan calls "nutritionism" than with food - a reductive focus on the chemicals and nutrients in a food at the expense of the actual whole food. Pollan demonstrates how study after to study shows that it is always healthier to eat actual food rather than processed "food-like substances", (no matter how many vitamins they have been engineered to contain).
The first two thirds of the book are a heart warming (to me) evisceration of the food industry and their willing allies the USFDA who have systematically destroyed the way we eat by demonising innocent traditional foods such as butter and potatoes (imagine Ireland without these two staples - doesn't bear thinking about!) while promoting pseudo-foods such as margerine - which apart from being vile tasting is over 2 times worse for you heart than butter (thanks to the trans fats).
The last part of the book which distills the current thinking on what is best to eat (actual foods, not too much, mostly plants) rather than what nutritionists tell us, was a little disappointing for me as it seemed so obvious - but then it is my business to know most of this stuff already. For example: that a glass of wine with a meal seems to help (tee-totalers die younger), small quantities of high quality food is far better for you even if that food is theoretically high in fat (as the French do), dont snack, eat at a table in company, dont buy any processed food no matter how fortified with vitamins it is (in fact the healthier the packet claims to be, the more suspicious of it you should be), eat more green plants (lettuce etc.) and less seeds (white rice, bread etc.).
Certainly buy this book but buy the Omnivore's Dilemma first.
P.S. - "In Defense of Food" is an expansion of a new york times article Pollan wrote a while ago and can be viewed on the new york times website here:
http://www.nytimes.com/2007/01/28/magazine/28nutritionism.t.html?ex=1327640400&en=a18a7f35515014c7&ei=5090&partner=rssuserland&emc=rss
Wednesday, February 20, 2008
Thursday, January 24, 2008
Michelin Awards Mint and ex Mint stars
Good coup for Mint in Ranelagh where former chef Oliver Dunne (now at Bon Appetit, Malahide) was awarded a star and where current chef Dylan Mcgrath was also awarded his first michelin star. McGrath's food is sophisticated, creative and stylish food but not for the unadventurous. You need to just go with what he is doing and accept that not everything will work every time. cities need restaurants like this that push boundaries and create excitement. Lunch is the best (and cheapest) way to experience the food. No need to recommend specific things as everything is worth trying.
Dunne's food is more classical in nature but also exciting and creative. God knows that side of the city needs a decent restaurant and finally they have it. The bistro downstairs is also worth trying. I am actually almost more pleased by this award as it was not predicted by the usual pundits and I suspect he could do with the boost given that the denizens of Malahide would generally rather go to the utterly abysmal Cruzzos to eat thick rashers and frozen tuna in in the hope they will spot ronan keating. Cruzzos is in a marina and filled with nautical paraphernalia as decoration, is only a mile or two from the biggest fishing port on the east coast (howth) yet the last time I was there the only fish on the menu were frozen and farmed (salmon, tuna and swordfish)... beggars belief. To be fair I took a gander at their current menu on their site just now and they have added sea bass (how innovative) and turbot to the a la carte. still wont encourage me to go back after my last meal there however.
A bib gourmand (good food at less expensive prices) was also awarded to Sha Roe Bistro in Clonegal in Carlow (of which I know nothing other than that the award is said to be deserved) and to the Winding Stair on the Quays in dublin which is definitely deserved.
Our other starred restaurants by the way are Guilbauds (2), Thorntons, L'Ecrivain and Chapter 1 (one each). The other bib gourmands are a mixed bunch with the Lime Tree in Kenmare, Fishy Fishy in Kinsale and Bang on Merrion Row being the best known. Oddly Maison des Gourmets gets into this list and while it is good I can think of others I would replace it with (Lockes and Alexis for example). If you want to see the full list the press release can be downloaded here:
http://www.michelin.co.uk/uk/front/act_affich.jsp?news_id=22014&lang=EN&codeRubrique=43
Dunne's food is more classical in nature but also exciting and creative. God knows that side of the city needs a decent restaurant and finally they have it. The bistro downstairs is also worth trying. I am actually almost more pleased by this award as it was not predicted by the usual pundits and I suspect he could do with the boost given that the denizens of Malahide would generally rather go to the utterly abysmal Cruzzos to eat thick rashers and frozen tuna in in the hope they will spot ronan keating. Cruzzos is in a marina and filled with nautical paraphernalia as decoration, is only a mile or two from the biggest fishing port on the east coast (howth) yet the last time I was there the only fish on the menu were frozen and farmed (salmon, tuna and swordfish)... beggars belief. To be fair I took a gander at their current menu on their site just now and they have added sea bass (how innovative) and turbot to the a la carte. still wont encourage me to go back after my last meal there however.
A bib gourmand (good food at less expensive prices) was also awarded to Sha Roe Bistro in Clonegal in Carlow (of which I know nothing other than that the award is said to be deserved) and to the Winding Stair on the Quays in dublin which is definitely deserved.
Our other starred restaurants by the way are Guilbauds (2), Thorntons, L'Ecrivain and Chapter 1 (one each). The other bib gourmands are a mixed bunch with the Lime Tree in Kenmare, Fishy Fishy in Kinsale and Bang on Merrion Row being the best known. Oddly Maison des Gourmets gets into this list and while it is good I can think of others I would replace it with (Lockes and Alexis for example). If you want to see the full list the press release can be downloaded here:
http://www.michelin.co.uk/uk/front/act_affich.jsp?news_id=22014&lang=EN&codeRubrique=43
Friday, January 11, 2008
dim sum in dublin
Apologies for my absence over the past couple of weeks due to christmas and a vicious cold. In case you are unfamiliar with the term Dim Sum is the Chinese art of small dishes usually served in the early or middle part of the day with lots of green tea - tapas with tea if you like. Most dim sum restaurants only serve their dim sum menu until around 6pm or so.
I had dim sum in the New Millenium beside the Gaiety on South King Street recently and it was as good as always. The NM is the most hard core of the dim sum restaurants in the city and alongside the usual won tons and deep fried squid you will find fish maw (a fish's swim bladder), chicken feet dishes and a variety of offal including tripe. You dont have to try any of these outré dishes but seeing them on a menu is reassuring as you know the dim sum menu is not dumbing down for pussy westerners. I visited between christmas and new year and among the thirty or so full tables there were only two containing Irish people - another encouraging sign. Go for char siu cheung fun (gelatinous rice noodle rolled around roast pork), squid dishes , steamed pork buns, etc.
Others to try -
Imperial on Wicklow Street - the most conventional and westernised but still very good. Particularly good to try first so you can learn what you like and dont like as they have a large selection of fried dishes and spring rolls etc.
Good World on Sth Gt. Georges St. - similar to above but the last time I was there I felt it has slipped a bit. admittedly I havent been back in over 18 months so it might be worth trying again.
Ming Court Blanchardstown Shopping Centre (beside McDonalds and above the Xtravision). - sounds unlikely but this is the best in the city for my money with very friendly staff and fantastic steamed and fried dishes. The menu also has some more unusual dishes to try that will appeal to the western palate - e.g. fun quoi - a shrimp filled deep fried delight. well worth a pilgrimage.
I had dim sum in the New Millenium beside the Gaiety on South King Street recently and it was as good as always. The NM is the most hard core of the dim sum restaurants in the city and alongside the usual won tons and deep fried squid you will find fish maw (a fish's swim bladder), chicken feet dishes and a variety of offal including tripe. You dont have to try any of these outré dishes but seeing them on a menu is reassuring as you know the dim sum menu is not dumbing down for pussy westerners. I visited between christmas and new year and among the thirty or so full tables there were only two containing Irish people - another encouraging sign. Go for char siu cheung fun (gelatinous rice noodle rolled around roast pork), squid dishes , steamed pork buns, etc.
Others to try -
Imperial on Wicklow Street - the most conventional and westernised but still very good. Particularly good to try first so you can learn what you like and dont like as they have a large selection of fried dishes and spring rolls etc.
Good World on Sth Gt. Georges St. - similar to above but the last time I was there I felt it has slipped a bit. admittedly I havent been back in over 18 months so it might be worth trying again.
Ming Court Blanchardstown Shopping Centre (beside McDonalds and above the Xtravision). - sounds unlikely but this is the best in the city for my money with very friendly staff and fantastic steamed and fried dishes. The menu also has some more unusual dishes to try that will appeal to the western palate - e.g. fun quoi - a shrimp filled deep fried delight. well worth a pilgrimage.
Wednesday, December 19, 2007
EHO Madness
Just a couple more examples of the madness of the EHO (environmental health officers) that are attempting to ruin everything that is good about Irish food (mainly its flavour). Remember these people have similar powers to a Garda Seargant and can shut a food business down instantly. Here are some examples I have heard over the past year -
- The EHO that wants to shut down the meals on wheels service for old and sick people because the premises the food is cooked in does not have a second sink
- The EHO (the same one as above) that made a butcher put in a second sink at a cost of hundreds of euro because the second sink he did have was 3 steps away from the other sink.
- The EHO that threatened to shut down a restaurant in the west of Ireland because she found dirty unwashed potatoes in the prep room. After it was explained that these potatoes had been dug by the chef that morning and would be washed before being taken to the kitchen she was slightly mollified but she strongly recommended that vacuum packed washed peeled potatoes (with no nutritional value) should be used in future.
- the EHO that harassed all cheese stalls out of the markets of the south east. She just kept finding fault until they left for good - in particular she wanted all cheese sellers to have fresh running water at their stall. (thankfully it was a different EHO to the one in the west or she might have driven the farmers out with all their disgusting dirty vegetables - "why cant these people grow their vegetables in sterile environments instead of resorting to putting them in the filthy earth!" is no doubt what she would have said.
- the EHO that went ballistic at the fish stall also in the south east becuase her thermometer probe found the ice on the fish stall was at 18 degrees celsius. She relented somewhat when it was explained that she had pushed the probe through the ice box to the other side and was actually taking the temperature of the air and that ice remaining solid at 18 degrees was rather unlikely.
- the EHO that effectively shut down the egg producer becuase she had the audacity to want to introduce new hens to her flock. The egg producer couldnt afford to build a second hen house as requested by the EHO, and as the current stock of hens were not producing enough eggs to make the business sustainable she was forced to give up altogether.
- the EHO in the north west that will allow one of the best butchers in the region sell his fresh blood black pudding in his own shop but not in the shop next door. This amazing product could compete with the best boudin noir of France, Spain and Italy but it will never be allowed to do so because he is forced to use inferior dried blood for any puddings sold outside his own premises.
- the EHO that visited a raw milk cheese maker while the owner was conveniently on holiday and bullied the staff into scrubbing the maturing room with disinfectant thus killing all the good bacteria that made the cheese. It took over a year for the cheese to even begin to resemble what it did before.
The Dept. of Agriculture inspectors are just as bad and in one instance they confiscated cheese from a cheesemaker because they were worried about infection in the cows the milk came from, but yet once the cows were slaughtered they were happy to allow the meat to be sold. The Dept. has virtually wiped out all the small abbatoirs in the country so animals are forced to travel long distances before slaughter causing distress (and affecting the quality of the meat). Trevor Seargant is talking about opening some again but I am not holding my breath.
- The EHO that wants to shut down the meals on wheels service for old and sick people because the premises the food is cooked in does not have a second sink
- The EHO (the same one as above) that made a butcher put in a second sink at a cost of hundreds of euro because the second sink he did have was 3 steps away from the other sink.
- The EHO that threatened to shut down a restaurant in the west of Ireland because she found dirty unwashed potatoes in the prep room. After it was explained that these potatoes had been dug by the chef that morning and would be washed before being taken to the kitchen she was slightly mollified but she strongly recommended that vacuum packed washed peeled potatoes (with no nutritional value) should be used in future.
- the EHO that harassed all cheese stalls out of the markets of the south east. She just kept finding fault until they left for good - in particular she wanted all cheese sellers to have fresh running water at their stall. (thankfully it was a different EHO to the one in the west or she might have driven the farmers out with all their disgusting dirty vegetables - "why cant these people grow their vegetables in sterile environments instead of resorting to putting them in the filthy earth!" is no doubt what she would have said.
- the EHO that went ballistic at the fish stall also in the south east becuase her thermometer probe found the ice on the fish stall was at 18 degrees celsius. She relented somewhat when it was explained that she had pushed the probe through the ice box to the other side and was actually taking the temperature of the air and that ice remaining solid at 18 degrees was rather unlikely.
- the EHO that effectively shut down the egg producer becuase she had the audacity to want to introduce new hens to her flock. The egg producer couldnt afford to build a second hen house as requested by the EHO, and as the current stock of hens were not producing enough eggs to make the business sustainable she was forced to give up altogether.
- the EHO in the north west that will allow one of the best butchers in the region sell his fresh blood black pudding in his own shop but not in the shop next door. This amazing product could compete with the best boudin noir of France, Spain and Italy but it will never be allowed to do so because he is forced to use inferior dried blood for any puddings sold outside his own premises.
- the EHO that visited a raw milk cheese maker while the owner was conveniently on holiday and bullied the staff into scrubbing the maturing room with disinfectant thus killing all the good bacteria that made the cheese. It took over a year for the cheese to even begin to resemble what it did before.
The Dept. of Agriculture inspectors are just as bad and in one instance they confiscated cheese from a cheesemaker because they were worried about infection in the cows the milk came from, but yet once the cows were slaughtered they were happy to allow the meat to be sold. The Dept. has virtually wiped out all the small abbatoirs in the country so animals are forced to travel long distances before slaughter causing distress (and affecting the quality of the meat). Trevor Seargant is talking about opening some again but I am not holding my breath.
Friday, December 14, 2007
Steak and Chips - in search of perfection
First published on http://www.bestofbridgestone.com/
Steak Frites is the quintessential French Bistro dish. Whenever I am in France this is the dish I order more than any other as I can be fairly certain they will get it right - or at least less wrong. The chips might be cooked from frozen and the steak underdone (to some Irish palates) but I have come to trust in the simplicity of this dish.
First let me tell you what steak frites is not. It is not tender but tasteless fillet steak with a tournedos sauce (the reason fillet always has a rich sauce is because it is usually tasteless on its own), and the frites are thin and crispy – they are never, ever, ever, wedges of undercooked soggy potato.
The best steak frites is made with a cheap cut such as rib-eye, rump or onglet cooked rare or blue. If you like your steak well done you need to order a better cut as these cuts will not work.
The chewy texture and meaty flavours from the cheaper cuts are essential to match the crispy fluffy chips. Sirloin is just about acceptable and maybe Striploin but the chips had better be damn good.
In France ask for “à point” for what we call medium rare or saignant as the French do. A word of warning - you wont be taken seriously as a diner in France unless you ask for saignant which will only cook the outside leaving most of the proteins un-connected (OK I admit it – raw!). Once you try it a few times you wont want your steak frites any other way.
Sadly many restaurant customers do not understand this and I know that Venu were forced within six months to change their cut (and increase the price) as customers reported their steak as “chewy”. Telling customers “it’s supposed to be that way!” is sadly not an option in Ireland (as it would be in France!).
Now the frites - this may sound like sacrilege, but give me frozen crispy chips over the abomination that are “home-cooked chips” or “hand-cut chips” which turn out to be little more than soapy wedges of undercooked potato – all too prevalent in restaurants of all price ranges in Dublin and elsewhere.
The problem with freshly prepared thin crispy chips is time. Bistros survive on rapid turnover and many believe they just don’t have the time to first blanch their chips in 140C oil, cool them down, and then cook from cold at 180C – as they do in Alexis in Dun Laoghaire (who use maris piper).
Personally I don’t see what the problem is – if Alexis can do it and just charge €22.50 for sublime steak and the crispiest of chips why cant everyone else?
Lockes use Spanish potatoes, blanch their chips three times in oil before the final frying and these are also out of this world good. Blanching three times probably a little over the top but it really does work so I am not complaining.
Balzac cooks a fine steak frites and unashamedly uses frozen chips and I applaud them for this, particularly as they have outstanding duck fat potatoes also on the menu – a reason for visiting on their own.
Venu has tried fresh cut chips (cut raw early in the day – pretty good), frozen chips (not bad) and have finally settled on the blanching and re-frying method (excellent). Currently my sources tell me they are experimenting with oils and have a “secret ingredient” which they believe will give them “the best chips in the city”. Truly a worthy ambition and something for which I wish others would strive.
If you are in Paris the best steak frites I have had was at Le Gavroche on Rue St. Marc, a tiny old school bistro in the 2nd Arr – the best frites in Paris according to Figaro and truly excellent they are; (whisper it though, the ones in Lockes and Alexis are better.)
In New York visit Les Halles on Park Avenue which I still believe was the best steak frites I have ever experienced. At home use Anthony Bourdain’s Les Halles Cookbook which tells you all you need to know about the dish.
As Disreli said “It was not reason that besieged Troy; it was not reason that sent forth the Saracen from the desert to conquer the world… above all, it was not reason that created the French Revolution. Man is only great when he acts from the passions; never irresistible but when he appeals to the imagination.”
So rise with me as customers of the restaurants of Ireland to stay the encroaching tide of wedges, and let us demand frites.
Steak Frites is the quintessential French Bistro dish. Whenever I am in France this is the dish I order more than any other as I can be fairly certain they will get it right - or at least less wrong. The chips might be cooked from frozen and the steak underdone (to some Irish palates) but I have come to trust in the simplicity of this dish.
First let me tell you what steak frites is not. It is not tender but tasteless fillet steak with a tournedos sauce (the reason fillet always has a rich sauce is because it is usually tasteless on its own), and the frites are thin and crispy – they are never, ever, ever, wedges of undercooked soggy potato.
The best steak frites is made with a cheap cut such as rib-eye, rump or onglet cooked rare or blue. If you like your steak well done you need to order a better cut as these cuts will not work.
The chewy texture and meaty flavours from the cheaper cuts are essential to match the crispy fluffy chips. Sirloin is just about acceptable and maybe Striploin but the chips had better be damn good.
In France ask for “à point” for what we call medium rare or saignant as the French do. A word of warning - you wont be taken seriously as a diner in France unless you ask for saignant which will only cook the outside leaving most of the proteins un-connected (OK I admit it – raw!). Once you try it a few times you wont want your steak frites any other way.
Sadly many restaurant customers do not understand this and I know that Venu were forced within six months to change their cut (and increase the price) as customers reported their steak as “chewy”. Telling customers “it’s supposed to be that way!” is sadly not an option in Ireland (as it would be in France!).
Now the frites - this may sound like sacrilege, but give me frozen crispy chips over the abomination that are “home-cooked chips” or “hand-cut chips” which turn out to be little more than soapy wedges of undercooked potato – all too prevalent in restaurants of all price ranges in Dublin and elsewhere.
The problem with freshly prepared thin crispy chips is time. Bistros survive on rapid turnover and many believe they just don’t have the time to first blanch their chips in 140C oil, cool them down, and then cook from cold at 180C – as they do in Alexis in Dun Laoghaire (who use maris piper).
Personally I don’t see what the problem is – if Alexis can do it and just charge €22.50 for sublime steak and the crispiest of chips why cant everyone else?
Lockes use Spanish potatoes, blanch their chips three times in oil before the final frying and these are also out of this world good. Blanching three times probably a little over the top but it really does work so I am not complaining.
Balzac cooks a fine steak frites and unashamedly uses frozen chips and I applaud them for this, particularly as they have outstanding duck fat potatoes also on the menu – a reason for visiting on their own.
Venu has tried fresh cut chips (cut raw early in the day – pretty good), frozen chips (not bad) and have finally settled on the blanching and re-frying method (excellent). Currently my sources tell me they are experimenting with oils and have a “secret ingredient” which they believe will give them “the best chips in the city”. Truly a worthy ambition and something for which I wish others would strive.
If you are in Paris the best steak frites I have had was at Le Gavroche on Rue St. Marc, a tiny old school bistro in the 2nd Arr – the best frites in Paris according to Figaro and truly excellent they are; (whisper it though, the ones in Lockes and Alexis are better.)
In New York visit Les Halles on Park Avenue which I still believe was the best steak frites I have ever experienced. At home use Anthony Bourdain’s Les Halles Cookbook which tells you all you need to know about the dish.
As Disreli said “It was not reason that besieged Troy; it was not reason that sent forth the Saracen from the desert to conquer the world… above all, it was not reason that created the French Revolution. Man is only great when he acts from the passions; never irresistible but when he appeals to the imagination.”
So rise with me as customers of the restaurants of Ireland to stay the encroaching tide of wedges, and let us demand frites.
Wednesday, December 5, 2007
Tallaght - All Fur Coat etc
What with all the snazzy new high rises and apartment blocks in Dublin 24 (including three or four new hotels), might one expect an alternative to Graham O'Sullivan's in the basement of The Square Shopping Centre or the carvery at the Abberley Court - neither of which would be on anyone's trail for a decent bit to eat???? Not entirely.
Three places recently tried are The Carvery at the bar in The Tower Hotel, the bar at The Glashaus Hotel, and Cactus Jack's.
The Tower is apparently a 4 star hotel ( 5th star was denied since the bedrooms aren't big enough) on the N81 on the left as you drive past Tallaght on the road to Blessington. Architecture is quite striking (in not a bad way) so you can't really miss it. I was there for a business lunch and for a carvery I must say I have had much worse. The roast beef was a light pink inside ( if it was rarer I might have gone for it, but at least it wasn't incinerated), usual choices to be had - beef, chicken, pork, salmon. I had the chicken in a mushroom cream sauce which was just a breast roasted on the bone and very good. The mash was clearly put through a ricer - no lumps - which is always a good sign. Desserts were nice too - I had a mini tart tatin with vanilla ice cream. Not bad for lunch on a working day. If you want to see how bad a meal like this can be - try An Poitin Stil if its still under the same management as was a year or two back. Decor is a bit bland and the room is enormous with a very high ceilings. Not even slightly cosy and flat screen TVs mounted everywhere, which I didn't like at all. The coffee was great though.
They also have a proper 'restaurant' called Eon (sounds dodgy). Would love to hear if anyone's been there - only open in the evening I think.
The Glashaus Hotel is Irish owned and managed as is The Tower. All sounds very hip and boutiquey and that is what they are aiming for, if not quite hitting. All these places seem to be geared towards the business market - not too many rock stars then. This is just across the way from the new M and S beside The Square. The food in the bar was pretty good and well priced - they have a restaurant upstairs with the same menu. Service excellent and nice atmosphere - well decorated and I would be back. I had crab cakes with a sweet chilli sauce which was nicely done.
Cactus Jacks is a Tex Mex place and is round the corner from The Glashaus. I've had lunch there twice - poor me. First time I ordered ciabatta with chorizo, cheddar cheese, salsa and some other topping. Anyway, about a quarter of the way through I really felt as if the whole thing was really dry and realised I was missing the salsa and other topping. I asked for and got a side of guacamole and salsa which I wasn't charged for. I left a lot of it. Second time was a work lunch and I order a chicken fajita with rice and salad. It was OK - very bland. All very pedestrian although the portions are decent but would want to be when most mains are 10 - 13 Euro each. I won't be back - it was all very heavy and unexciting. They should call their neighbours at the Glashouse for the sweet chilli sauce recipe which would liven things up a bit.
So, out of them all I would say The Glashaus is definitely the winner. Though I won't be expecting any waves in the little foodie pond of Ireland to be crashing against the cliffs over any of them.
However, the market near The Abberley on Fridays and Saturdays is quite good. There is a butcher there who sells the most DIVINE sausages I've had in years. Also Paddy Jacks have some very nice Basque sheeps cheeses amongst others.
Over and out from Tallaght!!
Three places recently tried are The Carvery at the bar in The Tower Hotel, the bar at The Glashaus Hotel, and Cactus Jack's.
The Tower is apparently a 4 star hotel ( 5th star was denied since the bedrooms aren't big enough) on the N81 on the left as you drive past Tallaght on the road to Blessington. Architecture is quite striking (in not a bad way) so you can't really miss it. I was there for a business lunch and for a carvery I must say I have had much worse. The roast beef was a light pink inside ( if it was rarer I might have gone for it, but at least it wasn't incinerated), usual choices to be had - beef, chicken, pork, salmon. I had the chicken in a mushroom cream sauce which was just a breast roasted on the bone and very good. The mash was clearly put through a ricer - no lumps - which is always a good sign. Desserts were nice too - I had a mini tart tatin with vanilla ice cream. Not bad for lunch on a working day. If you want to see how bad a meal like this can be - try An Poitin Stil if its still under the same management as was a year or two back. Decor is a bit bland and the room is enormous with a very high ceilings. Not even slightly cosy and flat screen TVs mounted everywhere, which I didn't like at all. The coffee was great though.
They also have a proper 'restaurant' called Eon (sounds dodgy). Would love to hear if anyone's been there - only open in the evening I think.
The Glashaus Hotel is Irish owned and managed as is The Tower. All sounds very hip and boutiquey and that is what they are aiming for, if not quite hitting. All these places seem to be geared towards the business market - not too many rock stars then. This is just across the way from the new M and S beside The Square. The food in the bar was pretty good and well priced - they have a restaurant upstairs with the same menu. Service excellent and nice atmosphere - well decorated and I would be back. I had crab cakes with a sweet chilli sauce which was nicely done.
Cactus Jacks is a Tex Mex place and is round the corner from The Glashaus. I've had lunch there twice - poor me. First time I ordered ciabatta with chorizo, cheddar cheese, salsa and some other topping. Anyway, about a quarter of the way through I really felt as if the whole thing was really dry and realised I was missing the salsa and other topping. I asked for and got a side of guacamole and salsa which I wasn't charged for. I left a lot of it. Second time was a work lunch and I order a chicken fajita with rice and salad. It was OK - very bland. All very pedestrian although the portions are decent but would want to be when most mains are 10 - 13 Euro each. I won't be back - it was all very heavy and unexciting. They should call their neighbours at the Glashouse for the sweet chilli sauce recipe which would liven things up a bit.
So, out of them all I would say The Glashaus is definitely the winner. Though I won't be expecting any waves in the little foodie pond of Ireland to be crashing against the cliffs over any of them.
However, the market near The Abberley on Fridays and Saturdays is quite good. There is a butcher there who sells the most DIVINE sausages I've had in years. Also Paddy Jacks have some very nice Basque sheeps cheeses amongst others.
Over and out from Tallaght!!
Thursday, November 29, 2007
Enormous White Truffle found
Enormous white truffle weighing over 1.5 kilos found near Pisa by a mongrel dog called Rocco. It is being auctioned in Hong Kong and may make as much as 150,000 euros.Brings back memories of early November last year sitting in an agro tourismo (grow much of their own food) restaurant in Barberesco drinking Barberesco with 10g of white truffle grated on my home made pasta for a supplement of about 27 euro! boy was it worth it - how often do you get to sit in such a restaurant in truffle season.
Ramsey is offering it on his risotto in Powerscourt charging similar amounts but crucially not always telling his customers how much extra they will have to pay (according to Liveline on Wednesday - http://www.rte.ie/radio1/liveline/). I know where I would rather eat white truffle given the choice...
see article here:
http://www.stuff.co.nz/4292214a19716.html
and here:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/italy/story/0,,2216999,00.html
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