Game, Wild Food. Herald Jan 29th

The Following appeared in my column in the Evening Herald on Jan 29th last:

Wild Food
Wild food always sounds more interesting than farmed and with good reason – it is usually tastier and healthier. Wild mushrooms, wild garlic and wild fish are obvious examples but don't neglect Ireland's fantastic game birds and animals.

Many of us associate game with Christmas and the Autumn but the shooting season for pheasant, partridge, woodpigeon and wild ducks such as mallard or widgeon does not close until January 31st. and deer are culled until the end of February. Wild rabbit can be eaten all year round (but you need to know a farmer with a gun).

Wild ducks and pigeons are significantly stronger tasting than farmed birds and should be eaten rare – just season and brown them in a pan and roast them for 15-20 minutes depending on the size of the bird.

Pheasant is much milder and is the best place to start your game exploration. Most good butchers will be able to source pheasant or visit a good craft butcher such as FX Buckley on Moore St., Lawlors in Rathmines, Downeys in Terenure or Ennis's in Rialto.

Strictly speaking most pheasant is not wild as most are reared by shooting clubs and then released for the season. In addition they are fed during the season to stop them straying too far from the shoot's land. Some do escape the January deadline however so you might bet lucky. In any event they still taste better than any chicken – if a little dryer.

Pheasant with Calvados and Cream

Season a pheasant inside and out and fry in 50g butter in a casserole until browned on all sides. Add a splash of Calvados, put on the lid and place in a 200C oven for 40 minutes. Remove the pheasant and leave to rest in a warm place covered loosely in tinfoil.

Add a good splash of Calvados to the juices in the casserole and flame or boil off some of the alcohol. Add about 150ml of cream and cook on low heat until the sauce thickens and reduces a little. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt and pepper.

While the sauce reduces, peel and dice two eating apples and fry the cubes in butter until golden brown.

Carve the pheasant, remove the legs and arrange on a warm plate. Pour the sauce over the meat and sprinkle with the cubed apple. Serve with buttered carrots and roast or boiled potatoes.